Tuesday, July 09, 2002

36 Hours of Bribery, Philosophy, and Fireworks

Nothing political or philosophical to say here tonight, really. I just had a really good 36 hours and wanted to write it all down. Besides, since this works kind of as my personal journal, it's good to get it down for posterity, while I'm remembering it.

Late afternoon Friday I went in AGAIN for a "brush up" laser (LASIK) surgery. This is one of those things that goes under the "Great Things About Thailand" heading -- usually something that is cheap, MUCH cheaper than the United States. In this case, it was a long-time dream -- laser surgery. Just think, no more annoying contacts or frequently-broken and awkward glasses. Yes, it is cosmetic surgery. Absolutely. And I couldn't be more grateful and happy about it. Anyway, they did my left eye fine... (I could only afford one eye at a time), and then they did my right...not so fine. A bit fuzzy, harder to see at night. They can re-do it, which means another short, but terrifying operation. So, they re-did it, and well, it seems worse. How's that? Yahoo. Anyway, I slept for about 12 hours...and then it was Saturday.

On Saturday afternoon, after a brief visit with the doctor who was relieved not to see an infection, I got on my motorcycle for the long ride out to the ex-pat area. It was the 4th of July picnic held each year by the Embassy. As annoying as this may make my dear Mark, I love this thing. I went last year as well. I suppose, when you live in a foreign country, especially in an area that has almost no foreigners besides yourself, you start to feel like you're living in a parallel universe. Then suddenly you're in this isolated area, a cocoon of sorts (metal detectors this year! Americans and dependents only! Keep your guns at home!), and you're eating hot dogs and hamburgers off the grill and deep dish apple pie (all rare treats!). There's an awful band playing country versions of Jimi Hendrix, there's veterens, there's voter registration, and then of course, there's fireworks. More Americans than you can shake a stick at are there, and usually the greatest number of compatriots at one time and place I may see is a grand total of five. I guess it's a little comforting...because it's easy. I don't have to think about the language I'm speaking. I don't have to strain to understand what's said to me. I can talk fast. I know how to act, I know what distance to stand from people. It's easy. That's why. I liked it. I know that for some reason I'm supposed to feel guilty about that, about being comfortable. I blame grad school for that.

But my immorality doesn't stop there. On the long bike ride to the picnic, I did something totally illegal. I, along with another motorcycle rider, rode through the "bus only" lane. Why? Well, two reasons. One, I needed to be on a certain street, but unfortunately, it was only one way for a VERY long stretch. Buses, on the other hand, have their own private lane going the same way I wanted to go! As I saw one motorcycle driver turn and begin to piggy back a bus down this coveted lane, I decided, hey, why can't I do it too? The second reason? Well, one bad thing about my living in Thailand is that I have become "Thai" in the sense that I have used the bad things in this society and used them to my advantage. Hey, everone else breaks the law here too and doesn't give a shit, so why should I? Yes, I don't rise above. It's true.

Anyway, I, and my motorcycle law-breaking buddy, got caught. We were pulled over by a cop. Seeing as I don't have a driver's license here, and policemen who are widely known as bribe-taking machines and have a strong sweet tooth for the sugary wallet of foreigners, I was a bit....worried. But in the end, it was the same old story. "You you got to police station. Pay a lot of money. Go station! Bad!" And after my cute-and-stupid routine didn't work too well, he did his typical "Pay here, okay" hint, and I gave him 200 baht ($5). No one here is surprised or impressed (save that it's my first Thailand bribe). I don't know how I feel. Part dirty, part thrilled, part indifferent (can you be PART indifferent?), ... Anyway, I did the right thing. You put your small bills in your pocket, and you hide your big bills so the cops don't clean you out. I put my big bills in my book. They'd never check there.

After my fill of Americana, I went to a nearby theater and saw The Minority Report which I liked very very much, but thought it could have dealt quite a bit more with the whole philosophical issue of "I am the Master of my Fate, the Captain of my Destiny" (sic). But as Spielberg himself says, "I deal more with emotions," not the intellectual aspect (he said that comparing himself to Stanley Kubrick whom he said was the latter).

Of course, I stopped in the giant English bookstore and succumbed again to purchasing a couple books. I've already finished one of them...an American slightly tweaked version of Bridget Jones. Enjoyable but unremarkable (see book list).

Finally, late at night I leave and head to the basement where my cherished motorcycle, Sherlock, awaits. I'm stopped by an American guy who is absolutely shocked to see a white woman riding a motorcycle in Bangkok. It's true. Women are rare (except driving in their own neighborhoods from home to market), and I am the only female foreigner I've seen on a bike. I suppose I'm remarkable! Maybe just different. Yeah. Anyway, I got his card. He makes some pretty famous Bangkok maps here. He said he has a group that goes on motorcycle rides. Cool. I'll make a people connection. I've got to. I think I'm getting too comfortable at this alone thing, as much as I enjoy it. All you've read above, it was all done kon diao as the Thai would say, toute seule as the French would say, or ALONE as we'd say. Well, get your motor running!

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