We had planned for awhile to go to what I like to call one of "Beau's Special Places." Besides growing up in Montana, Beau has been returning here for the past 25 years, and has camped, fished and boated in all sorts of various lakes, rivers, and streams. I was excited too. Though I am a city girl, I do love isolation (as long as it's not like, endless), and love to b
Late Thursday I was to go to Shop-n-Smile and pick up my paycheck - our weekend's entire cash flow. This was due to the fact that our previous paychecks paid for rent and the slew of bills all due around the first of the month. Early Friday morning, we would head out north, cash in hand, car packed up. I called up Shop-n-Smile just to confirm I could do this, and they said sure. But a few hours later, I got a call:
SnS: Hey J., um, because of the 4th of July, UPS won't be delivering our paychecks on time; you can't pick it up until Friday at noon.
J.: Uhhhh
SnS: Here...*reads apologetic letter from UPS*
J.: Fuck.
So, now what? We needed that money for the trip, but didn't want to waste one whole day of our three days, especially since we had quite a road trip before us. Milking the credit cards was not a good option since we were just getting those back on track. So, we got the idea instead to use Friday as tubing day! As the book says, in Missoula, a river runs through it, and as one friend told me, the route is "a beautiful 2 1/2 hour trip!" Nice!
Of course, this just happened to be the record-breaking heat day of all time for Montana. That Friday it would reach 107 degrees. Let me say that again, one hundred and seven degrees! IN FUCKING MONTANA! Due to this, we thought it best if we went later in the day. Right now, the sun doesn't go down until about 10pm, which gives you lots of time for day activities you may have to wrap up earlier in other locales. After we ran 10,000 errands in the oppressive heat, including purchasing two enormous inner tubes, sans air, we headed back home where we collapsed in crumpled, sweaty heaps. It wasn't long before I conked out, Beau first asking me when I wanted to wake up. "When do you want to go tubing?" I asked. "Whenever," was his answer. "Okay fine, wake me up at 5:30pm and we'll go."
This is something stupid about me that I can't seem to learn about living with Beau. 5:30pm to me, means waking up, shaking off sleep, re-pig-tailing my hair, and setting off immediately. 5:30pm to Beau means, continue drinking coffee, continue watching the news, washing those last few dishes, changing his clothes, putting on his shoes (this seems to take about 10-15 minutes), looking around for his car keys, sitting back down at the table to watch some more TV, changing the channel, washing his face, finding his wallet, etc.

Furthermore, I cannot ignore the role of Civ IV in this diabolical situation. Just like me when I'm home alone, Beau likes to have his current game of Civ IV on the computer. The difference between us is our abilities to GET UP and walk away from the game at a needed time. Beau finds this excruciatingly difficult. "Just let me finish off the Germans!" he'll exclaim. I try to be patient with this, because I know how unsettling it can be when there's just...that one....city left to capture. But with Beau, his video form of genocide can take many turns, until I'm contemplating finishing him off myself. And for those who have played Civ, you know that "just three more turns" can turn out to be thirty more minutes, easy.
In the meantime, I am going through an array of negative emotions from ansiness to aggravation to aggression, until I want to pound him over the head with a sledgehammer and drag his molasses-ass downstairs to the car.
I said that I TRY to be patient. I do not always succeed.
Let's just say that by the time our two cars were parked at the gas station and we were s.l.o.w.l.y filling up our ginormous tubes, it was 7:00pm. Beau says it was in part my fault. "You were crabby, so I let you fall back asleep." This is true, but I think he also fails to see how this is not really a good defense on his part.
By 7:30pm we had parked one car at the end point and were just parking another car at the start point, which was in a small parking lot in Lolo, a city 14 miles from Missoula (the one Brad Pitt's character kept gambling and getting the shit kicked out of him in the movie). The lot was just steps from the river, and within a ritzy neighborhood. I can imagine that the residents are just thrilled to have a bunch of screaming, drunken teenagers carousing through their streets every weekend, but by this time of the day, it was just us -- two old dorks.
We were somewhat alarmed to see a sign in the small parking lot announcing that the gate would be locked, (imprisoning our car),

Sure enough, the river was almost bare. There was one small group of people, but otherwise the river was open and inviting. We got in, and after that initial shock of cold faded away, we were off! Well, sort of. Tubing is rarely a swift exercise.
We floated along for awhile, enjoying the ride. There must have been a dozen different birds capering around, from tiny little swallows to a regal bald eagle (spotted by Beau, naturally). We even saw three enormous blue herons at different points, each one screeching in angry protest and taking flight at our presence.

Yet, as we floated along, I couldn't QUITE get to what is the ENTIRE point of tubing - simple relaxation. I would relax for awhile, we'd chat, we'd look at the scenery, which was beautiful, but in the back of my mind I would be thinking, "Can we get to the bridge before it gets dark? What if our car is locked up tonight? I guess we could get it in the morning. STILL."
I'm normally not such a worry wart, but floating down a shallow river in total darkness with all sorts of wild creatures nearby - Hey, there ARE bears! - is daunting. We continued to float - what else are ya gonna do? And it was beautiful, and it was enjoyable, and... we were comical. At different points when we seemed overtaken with doubt, we would slip through the center of the tube, land on the river bottom and commence intense aerobic activity, doing our best to run-walk-jog-trudge through the water. It felt a little foolish, but it's hard to be patient in a meandering river.
*slosh slosh slosh*
Then dusk hit. Besides the reminder of the oncoming night, it also welcomed an onslaught of insects. Particularly, mosquitoes. And if you know me, and my miserable history with the buggers in Thailand (i.e. daily coverings in red welts and my contracting dengue fever at one point), you know I am NOT a fan. If I could perform some kind of spell to instantly rid the world of this blight, I would. Perhaps in our fragile ecosystem they have a purpose - but I know not what it is - and for whatever reason, I seem to be a favorite of theirs. Many a time in Thailand I would be in a room full of people and once the mosquitoes hit, I would end up dotted with painful bites, while most others would remain untouched. It was maddening. The Thais often singsonged, "You have sweet blood, J., sweet blood!" Damn my sweet blood!
Anyway, that went on for about 20 minutes, and after several bites, blessedly lessened. But now the day was descending, and my fears ascending. Beau's too. By now, thankfully, we had started to see signs of civilization on the left side of the river, and some fancy homes on the right. We couldn't be THAT far, but how could you know? The bridge being our end point, it became a game of: "I bet the bridge is right around the next bend!" It was a game we would lose over and over again as it got darker and darker. Fearing being caught in the river too late, we dog p

We reached the railroad tracks which paralleled the highway (which the bridge was on). Somewhat of a good sign. Looking ahead in the dim light, we still could not make out the bridge. "How far can it be?" Beau wondered. With nothing else to do, Beau wearing his tube like a giant lei and me like a Miss America sash, and both of us dripping wet, we started off down the tracks. As we walked, both of us jammed our fingers into our tubes' valves in hopes of releasing air before having to put the sizeable things in our non-sizeable Honda. We walked quietly except for the continuous Sssssssssssssssss coming from our tubes, making our own Bizarro World version of Stand By Me. *squish ssssssssss squish ssssssssss*
At one point on the right was a large field with four beautiful horses: two greyish-white, one solid black, and a beautiful "buckskin" of light tan color and a darker mane. "They're going to shit themselves when they get a load of us," said Beau knowingly as we plodded and sssss'd by. They didn't quite have a case of the poopy pants, but they sure seemed surprised by our strange presence. And slowly, after a couple minutes of staring in disbelief, they began to follow us. The curiosity must have just been killing them. I found it touching. But I find just about everything to

And there in the darkness, we finally saw the bridge. Of course, now we had to cross the highway, another daunting task, especially encumbered with enormous inner tubes (the letting out of air had not been terribly successful). We did one of those dumb things where one person shouts, "GO GO GO NOW!" and the other person, because of their split second of hesitation, starts screaming, "NO NO NO! WAIT! DON'T GO!" Guess who was who. ;) We finally did make a mad-ass dash across though, and safe and sound, shuffled exhaustedly to the car. After smashing our tubes into the Honda's tiny trunk and back seat, we took off BACK toward Lolo in hopes of rescuing the Jesus car. And luckily, as I'd predicted (hoped), the gates were still open at 10:30pm when we arrived. So much for the 2 1/2 hour float.
And with that, Beau drove the Jesus car, I drove the Honda, and after picking up a delicious pizza, we drove home in relief.
11 comments:
Need I remind you that there are no mosquitos in NYC.
Your paycheck story puts me in mind of a certain UPS delivery that is interfering with a certain vacation that I have planned with a certain someone in a couple weeks. You see, we can't possibly leave for that week down the shore until Amazon delivers the new Harry Potter book...
Hahaha no way!! Seriously? I have it on order too, and am so excited!!! But at the same time...I'm chill. ;) I feel like i should go back like Jera and re-read the books so there won't be any confusion, but...I can't be bothered. I know I'll still read the thing in like 24 hours though. Well, maybe 48.
Your description of getting Beau getting ready to go made me wonder if you really married Cabol's dad. There are times he is here and I want to get started on a project that I feel like finding our carriage whip to get him moving before darkness descends. So I can certainly empathize.
(btw, my secret verification word is 'cowogs' - doesn't that sound very Harry Pottery?)
I know where that shot was taken, right in front of Hellgate High School. Makes me homesick.
Reading your various commentators I get the impression that everyone who comments is a long-time friend of yours and that none of them have ever lived on Montana. I am not any of those things. I was born and raised in Montana, as were my parents. And, I don't know you.
From reading about your float trip I think you might (I say "might") be beginning to get a small clue as to what the rewards might be for living in Montana and being a Montanan. I don't have much hope that you will stick around long enough to really figure it out, although I hope you do. You seem to have some grit. New Zealand is all about floating down a pleasant river on a balmy socialistic day (yes, I've been there) while being entertained by Maoris who have sold their Polynesian heritage for "jobs" and a penny and become a tourist attraction. Montana is about floating down a boiling river when it is 107 deg. in the shade, with nobody to save you if you fuck up and get caught under a dead-fall (which happened to a young man not too many days ago. He died.).
BTW, 107 isn't any kind of record for Montana, just for Missoula.
You should read about what it used to be like here: http://tinyurl.com/yrs8yp and then find this book (it's a little hard to find) and read it: http://tinyurl.com/yu8zt4
Montana is not going to woo you, you have to pursue her and understand why she is worth pursuing, if you are brave enough. Otherwise, adios.
And remember (just a warning) Montana boys are never ever far from Montana, in their hearts and they are never happy when they are not actually in Montana.
Dear anonymous,
I hear what you say, and I appreciate your comments. And i also appreciate hearing from someone (who) actually (was) here and who sees what I see. Like many people here, you have a deep love for Montana. I hope you come back and visit your home state and this blog regularly.
That said, I have to say I don't agree. As I've tried to show in this blog when I started it in Bangkok five years ago, I've have the wonderful opportunity to live in a lot of amazing places: urban, rural, big, small, industrial, white-collar, etc. I feel like I've seen enough by this time to have an idea of how to live and where to live (for myself).
There are lots of similarities between the mentality of people in Missoula (Montana) and in NYC. Both "people" think they live in the best place on earth. Both people suffer criminally high rent, but feel it's justified. Both see themselves as having, as you put it, a kind of "grit" that separates them from the rest of the world. Many NY'ers think only special people can 'make it' in NYC, and take a great deal of pride in that. Montanans are the same.
At some point in my life I may have taken pride in having that grit - and no place on earth ever tested that more than Bangkok (made living in NYC afterwards a cake walk), but I just don't buy it anymore. I know now that there are many many places in this world that have things like nice weather, nice people, interesting things to do, good food, gorgeous natural beauty, etc. and it doesn't necessarily have to come with some painful price.
I think for Beau and I, (and yes, he does consider himself a Montanan and deeply missed it before we came - though sadly no longer), we feel we have worked really really hard to work here, live here, and love it here, but the price may be too high (especially with such atrociously low wages!). Like NYC, many people here work two jobs, as I do, but in NYC I made $20 an hour as a temp. Here I make $7-9. And I'm tired.
The other thing that has bothered us here is the attitude that this is a really special place, and if you don't see that, then something is wrong with you. It's a strange kind of snobbery, a superiority. As one woman said to me in Shop-n-Smile the other day, "It's as if Missoula is testing you to see if you REALLY want to live here." I have heard comments just like that again and again. I would love to love Missoula and live here, that's the god's honest truth, but the arrogance of having to be "tested," to be deemed worthy, is a bit more than I can swallow.
We still hope to stay here, to get good jobs in our field, and to be paid decent wages (we're not asking to get rich). When we have ANY free time, we try to experience things here, and it has been nice, but I guess I'm just not SEEING yet what you see. Maybe it just takes time, maybe it'll never happen. Time will tell.
Hopefully, not too much time.
P.S. I do, on behalf of the Maori friends we left behind, take offense at your comments about them being sell-outs. We lived in a (and were surrounded by other) Maori village(s) where no one was involved in any kind of tourist activities as you describe - though we had a good friend who took backpackers (dont' get me started on them!) on eco-tours of the area and had those on work vacations work in his kiwi orchard.
I'm assuming you took one of the token cultural trips to Rotorua or in/around Auckland. It is unfair to judge all Maori that way. Maori as a whole consider those you describe as "Plastic Maori." I'm sure you can figure out why. This is no different from Native Americans who do the same here.
I actually see nothing wrong with it. Say what you want about hula dancers, Thai hilltribe villagers on elephants, or Maori "warriors," but in the end, it's about spreading knowledge about other cultures, and despite its commercialism and sometimes gaudiness, it can be a very beautiful thing.
I would not consider the passing of knowledge as being a sell-out. This "selling-out" happens everywhere. As you will see in my next blog, Montana has suffered the same, as the over-commercialization and population of many once-remote places has occurred - Beau's best example: Flathead Lake. Sadly, it happens everywhere.
Whenever I hear folks talk about how you have to really work to love living someplace, or that you have to be so tough and gritty and be tested and deemed worthy, I feel like they are trying to convince themselves more than anyone that there is some reason they haven't moved someplace more sensible.
"Look at me, I can make it here, I am SOOOOO much better than the rest of you who just can't hack it." Screw that, give me a tropical beach somewhere any day. :)
It occurred to me last night that being a born and raised Montanan IS something I have always been proud of. Not because it was something I had worked hard at being. It is just what I was. I had experienced being a part of something, growing up, that many people read about in books or maybe catch a glimpse of while on a two week vacation and then romanticise(spell check) about. I have been fortunate enough to pack into some very remote places and spend some quality alone time there. I am also very proud
of the people Montana produces. We
are an adventerous group that are for the most part well educated and easy to get along with, unless you are from North Dakota and can't take a joke. Granted I have been away for a number of years, mostly because I did not want a job in a saw mill, but I came back regularly
to see family and friends and to keep myself grounded. Yes, I absolutely LOVE Montana. But I am increasingly bothered by what I see happening here. The abuse of the natural resources is the biggest.
Now before you label me as an environmental activist be forewarned. I raised horses and hay in Kansas and Missouri and I fully understand the need to use certain resources. The natural resources I see being abused here are the people. They are the greatest resource this state has and they are an amazing group of people but they are being abused. They work hard everyday and are paid wages that most places would consider below entry level pay. They send their children to college only to find, after tens of thousands of dollars are spent, that there are no jobs here for them. Or if they want a job they are asked to take something that offers them half time or less. That won't even pay the rent. It bothers me when I see land that was in a family for generations lost because state property taxes have become so high that it can't be kept in the family. How many Native Montanans can actually keep the land they grew up on. It bothers me when I see that very same land cut up into lots by a real estate developer and then put on the market for some obscene amount like 130,000 dollars
for two acres.
Lets not even get into the Plum Creek/Burlington Northern charade. If you are not familar with Plum Creek just ask anyone living around another beautiful area. The Northern Woods located in Maine.
I could go on and on about the things that I see happening that bother me but the entire point that I wanted to make was that I love Montana and I don't think trying to make a home here has to be so difficult. I guess what bothers me most is the acceptance of poverty level wages by the people who live here and the failure of this state
to change it.
Oooppss I guess I got to rambling.
"I guess what bothers me most is the acceptance of poverty level wages by the people who live here and the failure of this state
to change it."
That's true of the entire American (and MANY other countries, maybe even most) population though, isn't it? My husband works at a restaurant (in Georgia) for $2.13 and hour! He is expected to build that up to minimum wage through tips and generally he does but that is absolute insanity. I read over and over again that you shouldn't spend more than 30% of your income on housing and yet I don't know anyone who can get housing for that price when their wages are so pathetic.
I'm not sure what my point is really except for that it seems to be so hard everywhere these days. Almost everyone I know is struggling and yet we aren't doing anything to change it either because you get beaten down to a point where you just lie down and take it.
First off, this is for Steve: OF COURSE you can't go anywhere until you have the new book. Priorities!! Sheesh!!
Second, I just took Civ IV off of my computer in the end...not only can I play it for stupid amounts of time, I'm also bad at it, which is a great combination.
Sounds like you've had some adventures...*hugs*
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